Frames can vary from simple clip frames to expensive handmade bespoke ones. The glazing can be acrylic (Perspex is the best known brand), ordinary glass or non-reflective museum quality. Prints can be window mounted, housed in box frames or dry mounted on to aluminium. The choices are as wide as the prices!
If you are looking for professional framers we recommend the London based John Jones. See our recommended partners.
That said we can try to offer a little advice
All paper products will suffer if left in direct light. Manufacturers' guarantees of light fastness all come with such warnings. So it is best to frame your print behind glass (which blocks UV light) and hang it on a wall that does not have direct sunlight.
Acidity and moisture can also affect your print. Ideally when framing behind glass allow a gap between the print surface and the glass to prevent the trapping of moisture against the print. This can be easily done using a card mount or spacers. Any paper or board touching your print should be acid free. Do not use ordinary adhesive tape to fix the print to a mount, ask your framer for special acid free tape. The back of the frame should be sealed with gum tape to keep out dust.
Fingerprints can cause long term damage, so handle the prints using our specially supplied cotton gloves.
Finally never, ever, use Blu-Tack!
Storing your print
Archival polyester sleeves are an ideal way to store unframed prints. They are available from many suppliers such as Silverprint. It is best to store the prints flat.
The tubes we package the medium and large prints in can be used in the short term but these are not archival. If your print has been stored rolled up and then refuses to lie flat, try lying it face down on to a clean, dry surface and gently rolling it against the curl. Then flatten the edges with books until it lies flat on its own.